Named for a popular folk singer, Gamble Rogers Memorial State Recreation Area is a small park in the southern part of Flagler Beach, Florida. The coast highway, Route A1A, runs through the park creating a beach area, which includes one of the park’s two campgrounds, and an inland area, which borders a section of the intracoastal waterway. The inland area features a boat ramp, an area for fishing, a second campground and the Joe Kenner nature trail. Colorful wildflowers grow in various places.

Joe Kenner nature trail

The trail, about a mile long, is a loop, that begins opposite the waterfront bulkhead. On the trail, you”ll encounter a variety of trees including the sable palm, the only palm native to Florida. There are also a number of shrubs, including the ubiquitous palmetto. Interpretive signs along the trail identify some of its outstanding features. A most enjoyable way to experience the trail is to come to the park on a day when a guided tour of the nature trail is offered. Check the park web site or call the park office for schedule and other information.

The downtown art gallery

Surprise! The gallery is a wonder. Crammed with paintings and sculpture, and featuring the work of local artists, no space is wasted as artworks are spread on the walls of hallways and between offices. Don’t worry about bumping into a municipal official or a clerk; they’re busy with their work and will ignore you. After admiring the art collection, step outside to take in the atmosphere of the downtown area.

Little Lady cafe

Lunch was on my mind when I left city hall. After walking a few blocks, I came to the Little Lady cafe and stopped in for a bite. The owner and her assistants greeted me with friendly smiles and suggested an omelette, which turned out to be a great recommendation. After a relaxing lunch, it was time to wander some of the local streets to absorb more of the local flavor.

Exploring downtown

Brooksville gives the impression of a city that has had its ups and downs and is now on the upswing. Many of the buildings are decorated with colorful murals. Some appear to have been improved and repurposed from their original use.

Across the street from the Little Lady cafe, the Country depot is a rustic store which took over a used-to-be Texaco gas station (and still looks like a gas station minus the pumps). The county court building on Main Street is a stately affair with giant live oak trees spreading their branches out in front.

Glory days

With its laid-back atmosphere, it may be hard to imagine that Cedar Key was once a thriving port, an industrial center, and a terminus on the first railroad to cross the state, which stretched all the way to Amelia Island on the east coast. By the early 1900s, Cedar Key’s industrial importance dimmed and fishing became an economic mainstay, followed by tourism.

What’s doing

Aside from eating, walking and gawking, there are opportunities for kayaking, sailing and other water sports. Seabirds are abundant and bird watching is very popular. Several fine beaches invite relaxation. Boaters can make use of a public marina. And of course, fishing is very popular.When stopping at Cedar Key  on a winter day, I was surprised to see the large number of other visitors that were there. We watched the colorful sailboats, sampled the seafood and hung out with the pelicans and cormorants occupying prime spaces along the docks and waterside buildings.

Cedar Key Museum State Park

For a glimpse at the history of Cedar Key, visit the St. Clair Whitman house in one of Florida’s smallest state parks. The house has been restored to represent life around 1920.

Matlacha mystique

This is a place to wind down, go fishing and then browse the funky art galleries on your way to an informal dinner. We spent a few days at a local B&B kayaking, fishing and watching the manatees drift by. The locals are knowledgable about fishing and will help you choose the right equipment and lures. They will also advise you about local restaurants and activities.

Kayaking fun

The Calusa blueway, a marked water trail dedicated to paddlers, goes right by here. One sunny morning we put our kayaks into the water and set off on an exploratory trip along the blueway. We had fishing rods with us. Another kayaking came by and surprised us when he put on a mask and snorkel and dropped out of his kayak. He wanted to see where the fish were. No fish were in sight, so we concentrated on following the markers that delineated the designated path and watched for manatees and dolphins.

Fish story

When we weren’t paddling, we were fishing. The bridge over Matlacha pass is a popular spot and has been called “the fishingest bridge in the world”. My wife was delighted when she caught a sizable crevalle jack.  Try to get to Matlacha on a Friday night when the art galleries remain open late. Unfortunately, that’s the same night that the restaurants are most crowded. Institutions like Bert’s Bar will likely have a line out the door. If that’s the case, you might want to put your name in and do some fishing on the bridge while you wait.

At the north end of the island is Bowditch park, a lovely place to fish, watch the local ospreys or just relax. The park has limited parking so it is best to arrive early in the day. If you’re staying at a nearby accommodation, walking to Bowditch is probably the best idea.

Fort Myers Beach has many hotels and condo rentals to choose from. The prime area in my opinion is between Times Square and Bowditch park. Both are conveniently within walking distance; at the same time, you should be far enough from Times Square to avoid most of the noise. The beachfront here is fairly uncrowded and invites strolling and surf fishing among the gentle waves.

We enjoyed kayaking in Estero Bay while we stayed here. The Calusa Blueway, a 190-mile long Lee County water trail runs through the bay. Maps, including put-in spots and other information are available at the blueway web site. Fort Myers Beach makes a convenient headquarters for visiting other worthwhile Florida destinations, such as Sanibel Island and Corkscrew swamp.